I would like to know how to refinish the claw feet on an old cast iron bathtub making it brass coating. Refinishing claw feet of cast iron bathtub 2001 Third best is to purchase specialty porcelain repair enamel made for that purpose and do it yourself, recognizing that this will not approach the durability of a factory-applied molten coating. Second best is to hire a professional tub refinisher who can do a good job with premium quality enamel paints. You can't do that, sorry so you're restricted to paint (which just isn't nearly as good) or finding a porcelain enameling shop to do it for you. The thing is, Neil, that the original finish was probably porcelain enamel, more like glass than paint - a ceramic frit (powdered glass) is melted and fused at extremely high temperature onto the cast iron. note: Sorry, this RFQ is outdated so private contact is no longer available, but public technical replies are still welcome! No public brand/source suggestions please ( huh? why?)Ī. RFQ: I live in an old stone terrace house with old cast Iron bath in very small bathroom, the tub is 2 inches shorter than normal bath so replacing is not an option it has been re-Enameled before but is now badly stained and turning brown but in good condition, but I am having trouble locating somewhere to purchase Enamel from, Can you help me? Any info would be appreciated. When you intend to paint a surface, you would instead use a phosphoric acid formulation called naval jelly or rust converter to convert red rust to that Fe 3O 4 black rust this is something which any home owner or hobbyist can easily do, and you can certainly do to the OUTSIDE of your tub if there is any rust. It might have been used on some of the claw feet of cast iron bathtubs, but I'm not familiar with that. These are finished surfaces which are not subsequently painted. When it's applied to a rough surface it comes out matte black, but when done on a highly polished surface it's comes out closer to a jewel-like navy blue. The same process is widely done on firearms, although people then tend to call it "blueing" rather than "black oxiding". Although the corrosion resistance is quite limited, it's an attractive finish that doesn't change the dimensions of the objects like plating or painting does. Industrial gears, sprockets, couplings and chain are black oxided. The black oxide process you are describing is still widely done on things today. You'll need to re-season the iron before using your cookware again.(your purchases make possible)Ī. Scrub the cookware with dish soap and hot water again to clean off the chemicals.Spray the cookware with oven cleaner to neutralize the vinegar. Remember, vinegar can eventually eat away at the iron. If you don't have a drill, you can try soaking the cookware in a solution of half water and half white vinegar for about an hour. Attach a brass or bronze wire wheel brush to your drill, and run it over the rusted areas. Use more oven cleaner if some of the grease won't come off. Scrub the iron clean using dish soap mixed with water and a brass brush. Let the oven cleaner do its work inside the bag for a few days. Wrap it in plastic or place it in a plastic bag. Spray the cookware with oven cleaner, making sure not to spray any wooden handles.
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